Friday, October 3, 2008

Istanbul




Istanbul is very large city of 16 million, hugging the shores of the Bosporus and the Sea of Marmara, where Europe meets Asia.

We took a taxi into the city - it was a hectic 30+ minute ride to our hotel near the Topkapi Palace in the oldest part of Istanbul. Our hotel feels as though it has been here as long as the city itself and was last given a good clean during the Fourth Crusade. However, its location seems good (near the major sights and on the only real tram/light-rail line).

On arrival, we had time for a brief walk around to get our bearings and to have a few drinks and a meal.

The next day (Friday) was ınıtıally rainy but quickly became a sunny and warm day (25 C). We visited the Hagıa Sofia - a massive structure built as a Christian church by Emperor Justinian ın about 500 AD and then converted to a mosque ın the 1400´s. It ıs a breathtaking building, particularly inside. The large domed space ıs superb and there remain some samples of the wonderful mosaics that covered the walls ın the Christian church.

We then had a look at the nearby Basilica Cistern, a large underground water storage created by the Romans. It has large numbers of columns supporting arched roofs.


We had a good Turkısh lunch at Doy Doy near the Blue Mosque (kebabs of different kinds and Turkish tea) and then went to the Grand Bazaar - the largest covered market anywhere. We did the usual window shopping - there are lots of shops selling all sorts of items; mainly gold and silver jewellery, diamonds, antique jewellery, leather goods and clothing.

After a brief rest, we took the tram over the Golden Horn (a river estary into the Bosphorus) to the end of the line and walked (uphill) to Taksim Square. We then walked down the main street, which ıs a pedestrian mall lined with all types of fashion shops and crowded with strolling Istanbul residents. It seems that the residents come out to stroll after abut 5.00 pm and the streets are crowded.

We had a great meal of mezze (dips) and grilled bonito with Turkish white wine at one of the many restaurants (Boncuk) ın the street off the fısh-market. Then we contined our stroll and took a taxi back to our hotel.

The next day (Saturday) we headed for the Topkapi Palace near our hotel. This is an enormous palace of the Ottoman sultans, including the administration areas and the harem. Much of it is spectacular, wıth great views over the Bosphorus and a Treasury of religious (e.g. beard of the Prophet, arm of St John the Baptist, rod of Moses) and precious (e.g. a very large diamond, Topkapi dagger wıth massive emeralds and diamonds) items.

After lunch of koftes (beef meatballs) and salad, we headed for the Grand Bazaar again. Thıs was successful for Bernadette and she has the goods to prove ıt.

We walked to Sulyemann's Mosque, which ıs the largest ın Istanbul. Unfortunately, much of ıt inside was not visible, as ıt ıs undergoing renovation. A further walk found us the tram station so that we could get back to our area. We then rewarded ourselves with a beer.

We then headed for the Spice Market, which ıs a teeming area down by the docks. Merchants sell spices, utensils, meat, vegetables, clothing and anything else you could want (including leeches!) to a crush of locals and some tourists. To get into the spirit of this, we bought Turkish Delight (delicious) and pistachios.

Our local area doesn't seem to have good restaurants, mainly catering to the tourists in nearby hotels. Our choice wasn't good - we had some Turkish variant of pizza.

The next day (Sunday) was clear and sunny, so we took a tour on the Bosphorus. Thıs ıs a two hour ferry ride to north from Istanbul through the Bosphorus to a small village near the Black Sea and on the Asia side. The village ıs mainly restaurants to serve the tours that arrive there for a two hour stop before the return trip to İstanbul. As we landed, the skies blackened, the wind increased and the heavens opened, so we (and everyone else) sought refuge in the nearest restaurant. We actually had a very good and cheap meal of fresh fish. The rain continued. Half an hour into the return trip, blue skies returned as fast as they disappeared.

We had an early meal and then met our tour group and other tour participants at our hotel.

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