Friday, November 7, 2008

Cairo


We convinced our guide to have a 8 am start to get us moving to the Pyramids early. We had an Egyptian guide for our trip (by bus) to the Pyramids. Unfortunately the day was hazy (it cleared progressively), so we didn't see the pyramids until we were nearly next to them.

It's difficult not to be impressed. They are what you expect - very big and very old. We went inside the 'middle one'. There is a narrow sloping passage down (only about 1.2m high), then a horizontal passage, then a passage up. You arrive at a chamber of about 10m by 4m, with a pitched ceiling about 6m high. There is no decoration anywhere and just a large stone sarcophagus in the chamber (they would probably have to demolish the pyramid to remove it). It is oppressively hot and humid inside, so you don't linger. There were only a few people inside when we were there - it must be terrible when there are larger numbers.

We had a good look around the pyramids and the sphinx and then went to a papyrus shop (seems almost a mandatory thing!). Of course, we now have a a decorated papyrus to take home.

The tour group met up for lunch (our last meal together). We went to a kushari - this is the type of restaurant and the name of the only dish that it serves, a meal that is a mix of rice, brown lentils, chickpeas, macaroni and onion, topped with a garlic, tomato and chili sauce.This is cheap and filling and is something of a staple food in Egypt.

Traffic in Cairo is simply maniac - much more so than anywhere else we have been so far in the Middle East. Traffic is almost constantly gridlocked, cars squeeze into every space, there is no concept of a lane and no traffic lights (which would be ignored anyway). The whole shambles is basically left to sort itself out. All this makes crossing the roads a complete adventure. You simply have to find the best way across that you can - the best approach seems to be to watch for a local and them use them to "shield" you as you cross.

For the afternoon, our brilliant team member (turned guide) Eileen had organized a tour of the Egyptian Museum. We took taxis there and met with our own guide. This was a brilliant thing to do. Our guide was great and we spent over 2.5 hours having our own guided tour of the museum. Our guide showed us key exhibits and really explained what they meant and why. She was a trained Egyptologist and could read the cartouches (the hieroglyphic names of the kings) on the statues.

The material from the tomb of Tutankhamen is simply amazing, both in terms of the quantity of items and the magnificence of the works. The solid gold funeral mask, inlaid with blue, is breath-taking, as are the various sarcophagi (one inside the other). The other material (jewellery, beds, chariots, boxes, jars and so much more) fills rooms. And all this for a fairly unimportant boy-king who reigned for only eight years!

From there, it was back to the hotel, a quick stop for supplies for the train, a quick meal and off to the train. We farewelled Eileen, James, Mary, Leeanne and Roberta, who finished their travels with us here. We were now with a new group (seven of us from the 'old group' joined 11 who had travelled in parallel to us from Amman). We also had a new guide (David).

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